Running In Blaster

[minimadness1]

hello my blaster has just had a rebuild any info on best way to run in new piston, bearings etc greatly appreciated, and also what mix of oil to use in the fuel milliletres of oil to litres of fuel please i'm in scotland no gallons over here ,,, cheers people :rider: also thinking of buying something bigger either 400ex or raptor any preferences and why

[Sycoholic]

Don't lug the engine, don't overrev the engine. I'd run it for an hour, change the oil. Run it for a few more hours, change the oil. Lugging will screw up a fresh rebuild more than anything. I run 32:1 ratio of gas/oil in my quad. That pretty much translates to any language. The 400ex is an excellent and very reliable quad. The Raptor is also an excellent quad. It's gonna be what suits you and your riding style best. The Raptor is obviously a bigger engine and therefore faster than the 400, but the 400 is more than adequate. To get rid of my Blaster, I would buy a 400ex.

:fireevil:

Good suggestions :smiliethumbup:


One thing to keep in mind when breaking in any engine is what is happening during the intial break in period. There are many internal componets that are very different and I will be only discussing the piston, rings and cylinder wall to keep it simple.

The most important thing is to achieve a good ring to cylinder seal and not cause any problems from over rev or heat that can create a loss of compression.

Its the heating up and cooling down of the metals along with the friction caused by the rings rubbing the honed ID of the cylinder that will allow it to set up properly to give a long service life. The one thing that I allways do and recomend on a newly rebuilt (or even new) engine is to allow it at least 3-4 cylcles of a run and cool down. The cooling down is very important to be done as this allows everything to "set" between runs and will not allow the cylinder to glaze over etc.

I dont give much thought to hard acceleration but do watch that the rpms dont get too high during the first couple cycles, and gradually increase the rpm during the next etc. Another thing that seems to help seat the rings properly is to allow some back pressure from baking off the throttle. A little blip of the throttle will accomplish this.

Have never done more than 5 cycles on any rebuild and have had zero problems, but try to limit the initial run to around 10 minutes with a 30 minute cooling period and gradually increase the run time to a final time of around 30 minutes. Then its always been wide open throttle after that.

Not everyone agrees with this 100% and many still stand behind the overly long break in times recomended by the manufacturers, but I have never seen any substancial info to back up any of these beliefs. There are even those who just hit the starter and run it full on from the get go, and I have seen people who have done that without a problem. Thing is that these were new machines and they all had some run in time from the factory and thats a lot different than a fresh engine.

Good luck, and ride it hard!!