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Old 06-17-2005, 01:53 AM
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Location: Upstate, NY
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Hello,

Nice forum!

I have an '88 Suzuki LT-4WD. I've had it since new and it's used mostly for work on my property ie: plowing & hauling. For the last few years (occasionally) I have had starting problems, but eventually it would start. Last fall it wouldn't start at all. I checked the spark and it was either non existant or VERY weak. It was actually tan colored! I replaced the plug, coil, neutral switch, and battery. STILL had a weak spark. I called the dealer and he suggested adjusting the valves. I loaded it on the truck and took it down to him. When he called later that day, he said it wouldn't start, and suggested leaving it for him to troubleshoot it. I said.. NO WAY! I can check it put here (I know what they get per hour for labor!) Anyway... I picked the ATV up, brought it home and dumped it off the truck. Just for kicks and giggles I tried to start it... IT STARTED, then died again. Hmmm.. must be a short, right? I checked every wire and found nothing. I gave up on it for the winter. Just today I got it out of the storage shed, and pushed it into the garage. I put the freshly charged battery in and it started right up. I got a multitester and tested the stator and the regulator. The readings were fine. I drove it all around the property and it ran really well, and continued to start right up. I let it idle for some time in the garage and played with the ignition/light switch. When I did that the neutral light started flickering. When I reved the engine it was bright again. :huh: Could it still be the stator? Or do you think it's the switch? Does anyone have a clue how to test this thing?

Sorry this was so long, but I wanted to tell you all the facts about the problem.

Thanks,
Jackie
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Old 06-17-2005, 11:46 AM
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:huh: it sounds like the stator
maybe magnets or the coils needs to be rewired
or just simple ignition timing tune-up
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Old 06-18-2005, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by kninja@Jun 17 2005, 08:46 AM
:huh: it sounds like the stator
maybe magnets or the coils needs to be rewired
or just simple ignition timing tune-up
<div align='right'><{POST_SNAPBACK}>
[/quote]

Hey Kninja!

Thanks for your response. I am thinking it just may be the stator too. They are hard to come by for this model unless you want to spend over $300 at the dealer. I found a site that had Suzuki stators for around 130 dollars, but not for my year. I contacted a guy in Canada that rewinds stators. He gave me an estimate of 100-125 to rewind it. This may be my only option at this point since I don't have the $ to buy OEM. Next is trying to figure how to remove a badly rusted exhaust to get the left side of the engine apart. I'll let you know what happens.

Jackie (Adirondack Gal)
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Old 06-19-2005, 01:04 PM
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UPDATE:

I spent the rainy day yesterday checking the bike again. I did the Electrex "find fault" test. The stator tested just fine. However, the Regulator flunked the test.
I also checked every wire I could find and only found one that was questionable and I repaired it. I'm going to double check it today.



Jackie (Adirondack Gal)
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Old 06-19-2005, 02:08 PM
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good job Jackie :smiliethumbup:
its sounds like your on the money
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Old 06-20-2005, 12:55 AM
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Did you find anything else today? Keep us posted
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2003 Honda Rancher ES 4x4
25" Mud Lites on Type6 Alum Wheels, Warn 4-2-4, Front Disc brake conversion kit, Big Gun EVO Exhaust, jet kit, K & N filter

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Old 06-20-2005, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by David@Jun 19 2005, 09:55 PM
Did you find anything else today? Keep us posted
<div align='right'><{POST_SNAPBACK}>
[/quote]

Morning David!

Thanks for asking!

I redid the Electrex test again. The very 1st test was good for the bike. Then I did the 2nd test where the bike is at idle. You connect the (-) meter lead to the battery and the (+) meter lead to the red output wire of the Regulator (RR) It was supposed to show less than 0.2 volts. Mine showed 23.3V. This indicates a bad (+) connection lead from the RR to the battery. I checked EVERY wire with the meter and they are fine. What does this mean?

It also failed the 2nd test where you hook the (+) meter lead to the (-) battery post. Then connect the (-) meter lead to the (+) output of the RR. This test is while the RR is on the bike, and is idling. You should have a reading of less than 0.2V. I had a reading of 7.7 to 8.4. This says I have a bad (-) lead from the RR to the battery. Again, I checked every wire and ground and they are all fine.

Once yesterday the bike started and did this little hiccup thing that it has done for many years. About 5 seconds after the hiccup it died and wouldn't restart.

Later in the day I got the bike started and it idled for well over 30 minutes. Suddenly the neutral light went out. I shut the bike off and it was completely dead when I tried to restart it. While it was hot I decided to change the oil. When I finished, the bike restarted and ran for about 15 minutes or so when I decided to rev it up a bit. After I reved it the neutral light went out again. I shut it down and it wouldn't restart. I calmly shut the lights off in the garage, closed the door, went in the house and kicked the dog! (not really)

By the way.. I replaced the neutral relay last year. It has a new coil, new battery last year, the valves have been adjusted by the dealer, and a new plug. I don't know what to do next..... HEEEEEEELP!

(Hey....... you asked what I found!)
Jackie <~~~ who would NEVER kick a dog
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