Caster Camber And Toe Settings

[kninja]

I have been messing with my front end lately
ever since I replaced my stock A arms on my 04 banshee
with a +2 fully adjustable A Arms
they never seemed to be aligned the same way no matter what I did
finally I have purchased a professional digital gouge and got both aligned the same
my mistake was assuming the chassis is equal on both sides
and I was keeping the same thread turn number
on the top A arm ends on both sides
now that I got it all aligned the same
can someone please recommend or share experience
for caster camber and toe settings
I do mostly MX riding
I have researched and found these recommended settings:

Recommended Camber: Negative

Motocross: 4.5°
Cross Country: 4.5°
Sand Dunning: 2 - 4°
Desert Racing: 2 - 4°
Recreational: 1 - 3°

Recommended Caster: Positive

Motocross: 4.5°
Cross Country: 4.5°
Sand Dunning: 3 - 4.5°
Desert Racing: 6.5°
Recreational: 3.5 - 4.5°

Recommended Toe: Toe-in ¼ of an inch

[ridnwarrior]

Good guidelines to follow on caster and camber but I go more on the toe-in.
I am at 3/8" right now. I think it tracks better at faster speeds.
Some of my woods races have wide open sections and I want it to track straight.
For motocross, it depends on what track you are on. When I raced at Englishtown with you there are no long straightaways so 1/4" would be fine.

[RideOrDie125]

i remember what camber and toe is but i cant rememebr what caster...someone ell me? or just refresh my mind on camber and caster?

[kninja]

Originally posted by RideOrDie125@Aug 8 2005, 02:28 PM
i remember what camber and toe is but i cant rememebr what caster...someone ell me? or just refresh my mind on camber and caster?
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[/quote]
Caster is the amount of angle that the spindle has in relation
to the vertical centerline of the wheel.
If the upper ball joint is farther forward than the lower ball joint,
it is said to have negative caster.
If the upper ball joint is farther to the back than the lower ball joint,
it is said to have positive caster.
The greater the amount of positive caster,
the more stable the ATV will be at speed.
The less positive caster it has, the easier it will steer and the quicker it will turn.
As the spindle is laid back,
the tire has to lay over more when the front tires are turned.
This adds stability. If there is not much angle, the wheel will turn more,
making it quicker and easier to turn

[rpyfz450]

My JRD a-arms appear to have much less positive caster than the OEM arms do. They're not adjustable, so that's what's engineered into the arms. At first I was shocked at how little positive caster was present, but now I'm really liking it for tight turns.

I have toe-in set to around 0 at the normal ride height. I think I'm going to increase the toe-in to 0.5". I'm under the impression the tires get better grip, as if they dig in a little, when you have more toe-in. With the new A-arms, there's a noticeable amount of toe-in change as the suspension compresses. My new concern is a decent amount of toe-in at normal ride height may cause an excessive amount when the suspension is fully loaded.

[kninja]

ok guys
I finally got my front dialed in :rider:
Caster: 4.5
Camber: 3.0
Toe In: 1/4 inch
these are made for strictly MX riding
comments please?